| ABOUT
GREECE
With Christmas out of the way Greece is
on the road to its biggest festival of the year, Easter. Before
the fasting of Lent there are a few chances to indulge yourself
without feeling guilty.
Tsiknopempti (23th Feb)
Tsiknopempti is celebrated eleven days before the start of Lent.
"Tsikna" is the aroma of grilling meat and Pempti is
Thursday. The weekend following "Grilly Thursday" will
also have parties and other events; technically, that Sunday is
the last allowable day for eating meat and is sometimes called
"Meat-eating Sunday". The best Greek restaurants will
be crowded on this day - seafood places are a safe bet to have
available tables but be careful of mixed tavernas as they do not
tend to stock up on fresh fish in this period, as I discovered
the hard way one year!
Why are the Carnival (Apokrias) dates different
from Mardi Gras?
(Main weekend 3-5th March)
In Greece, Carnival dates are tied to Greek Orthodox Easter, which
is usually different from Western Easter. Every few years, both
calendars will coincide, so do check if you want to attend both.
Only the Greek Orthodox carnival dates are widely celebrated in
Greece.
When Should I go?
For the traveler to Greece, the most vigorous party is on the
weekend prior to the end of the Carnival season. This is followed
by Clean Monday or "Ash Monday", a generally family-oriented
day where, in Athens, picnics and kite-flying prevail. "Clean
Monday" is the last day of Carnival for the Greeks.
Why are the Greeks so good at putting on
Carnival?
They invented it. Most carnival-related events are connected with
the ancient worship of the Greek god of wine and divine intoxication,
Dionysus. The processions, costuming, and feasting all derive
from ancient ceremonies honoring him and other Greek gods and
goddesses, though some claim parts of it, including the carrying
of models of ships in processions, date back to similar rites
in Ancient Egypt. My personal opinion? Those pleasure-loving Minoans
had a hand in it too.
Important Dates in the Carnival Season:
The Friday, Saturday, and Sunday preceding
"Clean Monday" usually offer vigorous parties, parades,
and traditional events wherever Carnival is celebrated. In larger
towns or cities "known" for Carnival, such as Rethimno
or Patras, the previous weekend will also be filled with activities.
The last Sunday of the Carnival period
is known as "Cheese-eating Sunday" or Tyrofagos as no
meat products are allowed at this time. Macaroni is often served
on this day. Surprisingly enough, the word "macaroni"
is not Italian, but comes from the Greek words macaria or "blessed",
and aeronia or "eternal". Thus, "macaroni".
The preceding day, Saturday, is a special service for the dead
in Orthodox churches, and part of the rites includes the making
of grain dishes, probably a survival of the ancient rites of Demeter.
Thus, "macaroni".
"Clean Monday" or Kathari Deftera,
is the actually the first day of Lent (Sarakosti). While a holiday
atmosphere still prevails, the foods consumed are all "pure",
without the shedding of blood. But this allows cuttlefish and
squid, fish roe, and other items. "Lagana" is a flat
bread traditionally served on this day.
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